Korea
Ethnic Garment:
Turquoise Korean hanbok (traditional dress)
Date: 1970s
Donor: Anonymous
The skirt and jacket (chima and chogon) are made of tissue silk jacquard, one of the traditional fabrics for this garment. Ramie is a traditional Korean textile that used to be found in hanbok. However because it is stiff, ramie is used less often today for clothing but continues to be used in Korean patchwork. On hanbok, the application of silver floral motifs is traditional. This surface design technique results from rubbing silver leaf onto paste stamped onto the fabric. Chogori (jacket) has a strait shoulder line with no seam at the shoulder but a curved cut on the underside of the sleeve. The length of the chogori is very short, just barely covering the bustline. It is tied with a half bow. Hanging from the long full skirt is a traditional accessory called a norigae. A long full skirt, the chima, is fully lined in organza for body and stiffness.
It is a wrap skirt that opens in the back because in a traditional Korean home, women sat on the floor; having the skirt open in the back allows freedom of movement for this motion.
Contemporary Garment:
Moss green three-piece suit
Date: 1997
Courtesy of Dr. Linda Arthur
Contemporary Japanese designer, Yasuko, exhibits Korean influence in this current ensemble. The short jacket with half bow over long blouse and skirt reminds us of the traditional chogori, especially in the introduction of patchwork in the fabric for the jacket. Korean patchwork has been used for a variety of purposes, but in this contemporary example of patchwork, Yasuko included kimono fabrics with crinkle rayon/acetate fabric in the blouse and skirt.