College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural Resource Sciences

Apparel, Merchandising, Design & Textiles

Dr. Linda Arthur

Books, Articles, and Exhibitions from 1999-2003

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Feature Books

"Religion, Dress and the Body" book cover

Religion, Dress and the Body

This book investigates dress in American Religious communities as a vital component of the social control of cultures, and also examines how people express themselves despite religious constraints. Gender issues feature prominently since th control of female sexuality within religious communities is a matter of vital concern to members. Drawing on rich ethnographic case studies, this wide ranging and interdisciplinary book represents a major contribution to the study of both religion and dress. The American religious groups covered in the book include: Amish, Mennonite, Mormon, Jewish, Catholic Nuns, African-American, Native American and even Muslims in Ohama.

Berg Publishers
ISBN: 1-85973-292-5

Available at Amazon.com

"Undressing Religion" book cover

Undressing Religion

Commitment and Conversion from a Cross-Cultural Perspective

From Islam to Confucianism to Voodoo, dress plays a pivotal role in religious expression. This book investigates how dress symbolically evidences both religious and social systems across a wide range of cultures - from Africa and South America to Asia and the Caribbean. In some of these cultures, dress is part of a system of social control. Gender issues feature prominently since the control of female sexuality is often of great importance to the world's religions. Members of each ethno-religious group actively construct their own lives, and use dress symbolically. A central tenet for many of these groups is that the soul is visually manifested on the body through dress. Drawing on rich ethnographic case studies, this wide-ranging and interdisciplinary volume represents a major contribution to the study of both religion and dress.

Berg Publishers
ISBN: 1-85973-475-8

Available at Amazon.com

"Aloha Attire" book cover

Aloha Attire

Hawaiian Dress in the Twentieth Century

Over the years, various garments have become increasingly popular collectible items as they grant insight into the cultures in which they were made. Collectors who love the sand, sun, and surf will delight in this extraordinary guide to handsome Hawaiian clothing. Filled with over 460 beautiful photos, this book gives a historical account of Hawai`i's fashion industry and its effect on the Western world. Unique island designs, exotic fabrics, and traditional garments - including the holoku and mu`umu`u - are all included within this spectacular display of Hawaiian paradise. Generations of tourists to Hawai`i will enjoy the explanations of clothing designs unique to the islands, and designers will find this an invaluable and inspiring reference tool.

Schiffer Publication
ISBN: 0764310151

Available at Amazon.com

"At the Cutting Edge" book cover

At the Cutting Edge

Contemporary Hawaiian Quilting

Hawaii Book Publishers Association
Ka Paloapala Po'okela Awards 2003
Excellence in Special Interests Books Honorable Mention

With vivid colors and breathtaking designs, the Hawaiian quilt captures the exotic beauty of the Islands and celebrates Hawaiian culture. The quilt is a tangible reminder of the aloha with which it was made.

Island Heritage
ISBN: 24223-000

Available at IslandHeritage.com

"The Art of the Aloha Shirt" book cover

The Art of the Aloha Shirt

Hawaii Book Publishers Association
Ka Palapapa Po'okela Awards 2003
Winner of Excellence in Special Interest Books

What is an aloha shirt? Here is its story from the beginnings in the 1930s to the glory days of the 1950s - and beyond. The art of the Aloha Shirt is a collaboration of Linda B. Arthur, professor at the University of Hawai`i at Manoa, and Desoto Brown, Hawaiiana collector and author. Information was gathered through interviews, historic publications, and photos, and the collecting and examination of various garments. Many rare photos are featured. The Art of the Aloha Shirt is an informative book that keeps the reader focused and wanting to read it from its first page to its last.

Island Heritage
ISBN: 22716-000

Available at IslandHeritage.com and Amazon.com

Books and Chapters in Books

Arthur, L. B. (invited, in press). Education is an interactive process. In Kallet, M and A. Morgan, The art of teaching: Dedicated teachers speak out. University of Kentucky Press.

Arthur, L.B. (2002). At the Cutting Edge: Contemporary Hawaiian Quilting (second edition). Honolulu, HI. Island Heritage Publishers. (peer-reviewed).

Arthur, L. B. (2002). Indonesian Traditional Dress. Levinson, D. and K. Christensen, et al., Eds. Encyclopedia of Modern Asia, New York: Charles Scribner's Sons. (peer-reviewed).

Arthur, L. B. (2002). Kyrgyzstan's Traditional Dress. Levinson, D. and K. Christensen, et al., Eds. Encyclopedia of Modern Asia, New York: Charles Scribner's Sons. (peer-reviewed).

Brown, D. and Arthur, L.B. (2002). The Art of the Aloha Shirt. Honolulu, HI. Island Heritage Publishers.

Arthur, L. B. (Ed.). (2000). Undressing religion: Commitment and conversion from a cross-cultural perspective. Volume 2 of 2 on the sociology of the body. Body, Culture and Dress Series, Oxford: Berg.

Arthur, L. B. (2000) Aloha attire: Hawaiian dress in the twentieth century. Atglen, PA. Schiffer Books.Arthur, L. B. (Ed.). (1999). Introduction. In Arthur, L. B. (Ed.) Undressing religion: Commitment and conversion from a cross-cultural perspective, p. 1-6. Body, Culture and Dress Series, Oxford: Berg.

Arthur, L. B. (Ed.). (1999). Religion, Dress and the Body. Volume 1 of 2 on the sociology of the body. Body, Culture and Dress Series, Oxford: Berg Publishers.

Arthur, L. B. (Ed.). (1999). School uniforms as symbolic metaphor for competing ideologies in Indonesia. In Arthur, L. B. (Ed.) Undressing religion: Commitment and conversion from a cross-cultural perspective, p. 201-16. Body, Culture and Dress Series, Oxford: Berg Publishers.

Arthur, L. B. (1999). The sociology of the body: Socio-religious control of the internal and external body. In Arthur, L. B. (Ed.). Religion, Dress and the Body, p. 1-7.Body, Culture and Dress Series, Oxford: Berg.

Graybill, B. and Arthur, L. B., (1999). The social control of women's bodies in two Mennonite communities. In Arthur, L. B. (Ed.). Religion, Dress and the Body p. 9-30. Oxford: Berg Publishers.

Referred Journal Articles

Kim, S. and Arthur, L B. (2003). Asian Americans in Hawaii: Ethnic identification and shopping for ethnic-inspired clothing. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 21 (1), 8-18.

Arthur, L. B. (2000). Visual Communication of Status in Hawai`i via clothing changes in the post-contact period: Pacific and Asian Communication Association E-Journal, (1): 1-15.

Kunkel, C. and Arthur, L. (2000). The Complexity of Feminist Bodies. Paideusis, the Journal of Interdisciplinary and Cross-Cultural Studies, (2): 1-14.

Arthur, L. B. (1999). Cloth, constraint and creativity: The engendering of material culture among the Holdeman Mennonites. Conrad Grebel Review, 17, (3): 32-51.

Arthur, L. B. (1999). The social construction of gender in two sororities. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 17 (2): 84-93.

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